Streamer fishing with a euro rod from a boat is not just effective it's downright fun. The casting doesn't ware your arm out like traditional streamer fishing, it is adaptable to many different water types without having to re-rig, and most of the action is in your face.
While there are plenty of scenarios where fast-action 6 or 7 weight rods, paired with either floating or particular sinking lines, produce results that make you smile a mile wide, a euro nymphing rod can get fish to bite streamers when those other traditional methods aren't working. When using traditional streamer methods, the streamer is limited to following where the fly line travels. The depth of water we can fish (shallow or deep) is also limited by the type of line and streamer that are rigged up, and this also dictates and constrains the retrieval speed we can use.
On the other hand, the longer, slower action euro rods can impart subtle movements to streamers that imitate wounded pray more convincingly and, when jigging streamers, you are able to keep the fly in the strike zone longer which can be just enough to piss a fish off to bite. We can more effectively present the streamer in both shallow and deeper water during the same retrieve while also having better control over that retrieval speed. Not to mention, a euro rod can target other water types that a normal streamer rod stumbles in, like pocket water and riffles, which opens up even more water for you to focus on.
Take all these advantages and combine them while fly fishing from a raft or drift boat, and it almost becomes a challenge not moving fish throughout the day, it is that dynamic. Better yet, it's an impressive tactic for species beyond trout such as smallmouth bass, northern pikeminnow, catfish, carp, saugeye, and so on.
Beyond my personal experiences, I have learned a great deal from watching George Daniel's videos on euro streamer fishing and have transferred many of his techniques over to use while floating in a boat with plenty of success. I highly recommend watching the videos on his YouTube page where you can watch him euro streamer fish while wading, you'll learn a lot.
(Also, as a primer for this article, be sure to read: How to Euro Nymph (Tightline Nymph) From a Boat)
Gear Recommendations for Streamer Fishing from a Boat with a Euro Rod
Euro Rod
When euro streamer fishing in a raft or drift boat, I prefer to use a euro rod that is 10' or 10' 6" which is enough length to jig streamers away from the boat while also providing the capability for mid-distance casts. These 'shorter' rods also load quicker which aids in easier casting. Longer rods like an 11' 3" can provide even more reach for jigging streamers away from the boat, however the trade-off is a little less accuracy when casting at distance, and longer rods take longer to load during casting. The longer rod, however, is better suited for standard euro nymphing from a boat while using nymphs. So the choice really comes down to:
Do you want to focus on euro streamer fishing? Then choose a 10' or 10' 6" better accuracy and faster loading of the rod for casting.
Or, do you want to have the option to change over and dead drift nymphs (or even use dry-droppers)? Then choose the longer 11' 3" rod.
These rods can be either a 3 or 4 weight which is enough to cast out the heavy jigged streamers you'll be using. When comparing these two weights, you can think of them as being able to do the same job but the heavier 4 weight rod will be capable of casting out heavier streamers (and nymphs) more easily. So, if you are primarily fishing larger, deeper rivers that demand getting flies down to depth through heavy current, then a 4 weight could be a better option. If the water is lower/skinnier, then a 3 weight would be more than enough to cast out a jig streamer.
Lastly, a 10' or 10' 6" rod works better than a standard 9ft fly rod because you can reach out further and twitch/jig the fly in front of boulders and logs, or in deeper buckets, with more control. There is just more finesse with at least a 10' euro rod. The softer, longer tip sections also act as shock absorbers which protects the tippet.
Fly Line
When using streamers with a euro rod, you are going to be jigging and stripping the fly through the water, and this means that you need control over the line in order to set the hook and easily manage any slack. A euro nymphing level fly line (such as .022" level diameter) provides enough tactile feel which permits better control to take up slack and set the hook.
I prefer a braided core (not mono core) level euro nymphing line so I can attach my leader using a needle nail knot. This knot is very low profile which won't get hung up in the guides. More on that knot in just a second.
Leader, Sighter, and Tippet Set Up for Euro Streamer Fishing
Looking at the illustration below, we have just one example of how to rig up your leader, sighter, and tippet to use while euro nymphing with streamers from a boat. There are plenty of ways to rig a euro leader, and you should modify yours to best fit your river and species in-pursuit:
At the end of the euro nymphing level fly line, there is not a loop-to-loop connection because that can easily get hung up in the guides/rod tip. Instead, the butt end of the leader is attached to the fly line via a needle nail knot and coated over with UV resin for added slickness. The butt end of the leader is 2-3 feet of 15-20lb Maxima. Off of the Maxima we have our sighter (connected via a blood knot) which is 18-24" 0x indicator tippet, and this terminates at our tippet ring.
From the tippet ring, you can run 4-8 feet of 2-4x tippet to the streamer. Length of tippet depends on the depth of water that you will generally be fishing in for the day. Even if the water deepens, we can still let the sighter sink beneath the surface for added depth (more on that later).
Although I primarily use just one streamer most of the time, this rig is capable of accommodating two jig streamers. Before you tie on your first streamer, tie on 2 to 2.5 feet of thinner tippet to the end of your leader via a triple surgeon's knot. For example, if you ran 2x tippet to the first fly then you should run 3 or 4x to the second fly. Having at least 2 to 2.5 feet between the flies gives enough lateral distance so that when you do strip them through the water they won't bunch up together.
We are able to use thinner tippet because these longer euro rods with slower action are able to act as shock absorbers which protects the tippet during hook sets and while fighting the fish (more on hook sets below).
Side note: When using these jigged streamers and thinner tippet, I use a 16/20 knot to tie the tippet to the fly for added strength. I also like to tie a trilene knot to attach the tippet to the tippet ring for reinforcement there.
(For more on fly fishing knots, read: 7 Useful Knots to Know for Fly Fishing)
Streamer Recommendations for Euro Nymphing
I will work on a publishing a future article on particular streamer recommendations for euro nymphing, but more important than specific fly patterns are specific characteristics. The streamers that I find most successful when drifting are jig head style patterns that are sparsely tied, they use materials that have a lot of 'natural' movement to them, and they are usually heavily weighted. So here's a breakdown of what I mean:
Weight- The streamer needs sufficient weight for casting (at distance) and for certain retrieves like jigging and jerk strips. I prefer tungsten slotted beads which really get the fly to kick up and down while jigging, and it helps to minimize snags by keeping the hook point up. Regular beads and coneheads can also work quite well. Most of the tungsten slotted beads I'm using are 3.8-6mm.
Hook- Jig-style hooks in sizes 2-12, with sizes 8 and 10 being the two I commonly use. You will be setting the hook while stripping and bending the rod, and since these euro rods have softer tip sections they will absorb some of that energy. So, we need to select hooks that have thin, razor sharp points in order to easily penetrate into the fish's lip. As just one example, the Firehole 516 is great hook to use. Also, I rarely use articulated streamer patterns, that use either one or two hooks, because those patterns incorporate more materials which means they don't get as quickly down into the strike zone.
Materials- Lighter materials that form a lifelike, 'shape shifting' profile, and that don't soak up tons water are things like marabou, semi-seal, polar chenille, soft hackles (chicken, pheasant, grouse, mallard, etc.), and ripple ice, just to name a few. On some patterns I do use craft fu, rubber legs or rabbit strips (or squirrel zonker strips) to add more of a silhouette or flutter as it is stripped through the current. Both flashy and muted colors should be experimented with on your river. Flashy colors especially help for when you are jigging the streamer and aren't always fully 'in-touch' with the fly. When you see those bright, flashy colors disappear, it could be an indication that a fish just attacked.
Simple Patterns- Don't go overboard with these jig streamers. You'll be fishing them near the bottom and around structure a lot as you drift, so don't waste an intricately tied, articulated, and expensive streamer while using this tactic.
There are instances where I like using patterns that have more movement to them, such as crayfish streamer patterns that have an undulating movement as they are retrieved through the water. This additional 'liveliness' comes in handy when you are floating through a glide and retrieving crayfish patterns over rocky areas.
Lastly, have a hook hone with you on the water. As I stated above, these hook points need to be thin and razor sharp to set them into a fish's lip. They will get blunted after bumping into boulders, rocks, logs, and the bottom, so routinely bring the hook back to you and sharpen it. If you have never used a hook hone before then check out this video on how to sharpen a hook.
(For more information on fly tying materials check out: A Guide to Feathers Used in Fly Tying)
Water Type to Target While Euro Nymphing with Streamers from a Boat
Here's where the versatility of euro streamer fishing from a boat really shines. With this tactic, you can float your river and hit not only the deeper runs, outside bends of rivers, and troughs along the bank, you can also pitch a streamer into small buckets amongst shallow riffles, high stick and jig the fly in turbulent pocket water, and make distance casts and retrieve the streamer over a shelf that plunges into deeper water, all without having to change out fly lines or flies.
Deeper water around runs and immediately downstream of runs is classic 'streamer water.' When floating over this water type, I am scanning for any deeper troughs or darker water, and if this deeper water also has slower current compared to the surrounding water then it is a great spot to punch a jig streamer into. Large substrate, like boulders, provide further hiding spots for predatory fish to ambush any prey caught in the current.
Riprap (the blocks of concrete or boulders found along roads or under bridges) is amazing structure for predatory fish, especially smallmouth bass. Riprap along a run should be a sign shouting out to you to throw a streamer and jig it along the length of this structure. Any small "coves" along the riprap are further prime spots to target with a streamer as there may be a decent fish tucked up in the sheltered water. If you fly fish in an urban area, then there is probably a lot of available riprap.
Pocket water is a water type that many anglers just hang the streamer up until the boat gets over deeper, smoother water, but this is where some of the better action can be during the summer months. When euro streamer fishing in pocket water, casts are short and you will be high sticking and jigging the streamer all with the goal of keeping that fly dancing in the buckets that are mixed in with the white water. You'll receive plenty of swipes by smaller fish that are being opportunistic, but larger fish will also take up residence wherever the water is deeper and not too far from nearby pools or runs. For an in-depth look at where trout position themselves in pocket water (which can also translate to many other fish species), read How to Fly Fish Pocket Water.
Riffles are another zone that fly fishers pass over when streamer fishing, especially if they have a sink tip line rigged up and they don't want to snag bottom continuously. With euro streamer fishing, you can hit this water by scanning for any deeper troughs or depressions of water. These troughs of water will be darker in color than the surrounding water and the surface current will also appear slightly slower. Again, for more information on reading this particular water type, read How to Fly Fish Riffles.
Any structure you come across, log jams, boulders, and root balls should will also warrant a cast if there is sufficient depth (at least a couple feet) and current flowing around the object. If you are floating in an urban river then the available structure has just doubled because of all the bridges, riprap, culverts, and random submerged urban debris that are fantastic ambush spots for larger fish. If you are floating slowly enough, be sure to hit the front, sides, and backs of the structure.
Those are just a few example water types, but keep in mind that you should explore your river while euro streamer fishing and take note of where you pull fish out of. The outside and inside bends of a river, pools, and glides are all other great places that you can target. Water temperature, weather, water clarity and current will dictate where fish position themselves in the river, and as you euro streamer fish your river you will glean plenty of invaluable insights that you should keep note of.
Casting and Retrieving Flies While Euro Streamer Fishing From a Boat
Casting and retrieving jig streamers with a euro nymphing rod is a bit different than casting streamers with a traditional fly rod, and when you are in a moving boat it adds another layer of difficulty. The good news is that euro streamer fishing from a boat is easier than dead drifting nymphs with a euro rod from a boat, because:
You are typically casting just one fly.
The heavier weight of the fly helps to load the rod quicker.
You aren't as concerned with maintaining dead drifts.
You don't have to worry about the angle between the sighter and rod tip as much.
In the next sections, we'll look at some casting and retrieving techniques you can use while drifting and anchored, but it is important to cover some general tips for casting and retrieving streamers first.
General Tips on Casting
For the most part, casting will be easier from the bow of the boat, and this is different than when you are trying to dead drift nymphs which I find occasionally easier from the stern of the boat (when there's two anglers). It is also going to be easier to make casts while standing rather than sitting in the boat, but that comes down to your comfort and ability to stand/balance in a moving boat. Standing in a boat also has the added advantage of giving you an elevated position which makes it easier to pick the fly up and out of the water in order to begin a cast. Casting from an elevated position also easily adds distance to your casts which is helpful when you need to cover more water or hit a target that's across the river.
Before any cast is made, you need to feel tension on the line, that's signaling that you are tight to the fly and slack is removed from the line. If there is slack in the line, making a cast will be problematic and if you do manage to bring the streamer out of the water it will most likely fling through the air and hit the boat or someone in it.
The streamer must also be close to the surface or out of the water in order to make a cast. If it is several feet under the water, and you make a cast, it will either not go anywhere or sling shot out of the water and through the air causing an uncontrollable trajectory, again leading to a collision with the boat or someone in it.
General Tips on Retrieving the Streamer
The speed and motion of the retrieve will be based on such things like water clarity, speed of the current, any fish activity, and water temperature. Cooler water will slow the fish down, so you should slow your retrieves down. Warmer water means retrieve quicker and more animated retrieves to match the metabolism/aggression of the fish.
Try different retrieves that have the fly swimming upstream, downstream, and across stream, and then explore different depths of the water column by allowing the fly to sink and/or vertically jigging the streamer. Drifting in a boat gives us the ability to cover lots of water and the euro rod gives us the ability to present the fly in various retrieves. Fully utilize this ability by exhausting all the retrieves at your disposal before switching flies. Changing up the casts and retrieves will help to present the streamer as various prey such as fleeing crayfish, a wounded and struggling baitfish, or a large, dead drifting meal.
When the fly is in the water, you need to stay in-touch with it since strikes can occur quickly and rejections even quicker. When a fish chomps down, we want to feel that happen, and the only to have that communicated to our hand is through a tight line. However, there is one caveat to this, and that is when the fly is allowed to fall through the water column on a slack line either after a cast is made or while jigging the fly. When the streamer falls through the water with some slack in the line it mimics dead or wounded prey, and fish love to see this vulnerable presentation. Many anglers refer to this as hooking into fish 'on the drop.'
Even when we allow the fly to fall (drop) through the water in this manner, we still don't want unnecessary amounts of slack in the line. When I am letting a fly drop through the water, I have just enough slack to let it fall, but the slightest raise of the rod will immediately put me in touch with the streamer (you can feel the weight of the fly transmitted through the line and into your hand in an instant). When you have just the slightest bit of slack in the line, you may even feel a fish bite the fly as it falls, and that can sometimes feel like the fly just ticked against a boulder.
We'll now look at several techniques for casting and retrieving, and these techniques can be employed while the boat is either anchored or drifting.
Underhand Pitch Cast
First, if you haven't seen George Daniel's video where he goes into how to 'pitch cast' a streamer with a euro rod, then watch it here. In essence, this cast is like a basic spin cast on a conventional rod and reel, the upward trajectory of the streamer will arc through the air giving you greater distance. This cast will also help the streamer to land more horizontally into the water rather than plunging in like with an oval cast, and this shallow entry is ideal when you are floating through skinnier water like riffles.
This cast is also great when you drifting around trees or pocket water. You can pitch the streamer underneath branches, and as you get better with the cast you can even control the trajectory of the streamer as it is traveling through the air. When floating through pocket water, such as around boulders and logs, you can make quick, short pitch casts again and again into buckets of water that may hold fish. Pitch the fly into a bucket, twitch, twitch, twitch, then pick it up and pitch it into the next bucket. This quick casting keeps you in the game longer and gets the fly into the face of any fish that may be holding in the pocket water.
Making a pitch cast is easier from the bow of the boat where you can hang and swing the fly in front of the boat without it getting in the way of the rower or snagging onto any part of the boat. When I am in the stern of the boat, I can still make this cast but I will turn around and place my back against the standing brace. In this position, I can reach the rod back and over the stern of the boat and make a pitch cast, you just need to keep the fly from snagging into the seat, gear rack, anchor line, etc.
Oval (Circle) Cast
The oval, or circle, cast is a standard cast used for much of euro (tightline) nymphing. If you are unsure of what the oval cast is, check out this video. This cast is more easily performed from both the bow and stern position of the boat compared to the pitch cast. It is a preferred cast of mine when I am rapid firing the streamer while drifting through a swift run or pocket water. You can quickly retrieve the streamer, keep the rod under tension, go into an oval cast, deliver the fly, and then retrieve and repeat again and again.
The oval cast is also a convenient way to kick the fly over and have it plummet quickly into a deeper slot of water. I do this by swinging the rod up and high overhead during the forward cast and then driving the rod tip down towards the water which will punch the fly through the current. This helps get the fly down through heavy, swift current in order to get it in front of fish that are holding in the deeper, darker holes.
When performing this cast in a boat, you really need to know how to cast over both shoulders. Being able to cast over either shoulder will allow you to fish effectively out of both sides of the boat. For example, if you are right handed and in the bow of the boat, you can easily deliver the streamer out the left (port) side of the boat by making an oval cast over your right shoulder. However, if you want to send the streamer out the right (starboard) side, you need to make the oval cast over your left shoulder. If you try to oval cast over right shoulder (when casting to the starboard side) you run the risk of hitting the rower or person in the back of the boat (or colliding lines).
The drawback with performing the oval cast in a boat is when you need more distance. Achieving more distance with the oval cast means that you will have more line/leader flying around in the air in a giant oval over the boat, and if there is a second angler on-board then you risk tangling into their rod or line. There is a third casting technique that we can use, however, to achieve distance while de-conflicting the airspace above the boat.
Distance Casting
While the pitch and oval casts can send the streamer out over a moderate distance, there are situations where you will need to get the fly out even further. Two common situations when I need more distance is when drifting through glides or wider pools and runs. In areas like that, I am trying to cover more water and also making longer casts because the boat will often spook any nearby fish.
Making a distance cast with a euro rod and jig streamer is essentially a normal fly cast: picking the fly and line up off the water, going into a backcast, then making a forward cast and shooting the line and streamer to the target. One backcast is enough to properly load the rod; the diameter of the fly line is so thin and the streamer so heavy that, on the forward cast, they will easily shoot through the guides and air with momentum. At times, a second backcast (or including a single or double haul) can be warranted if you need even more distance.
Here is a common method I use to perform this cast while standing in a drifting boat:
If the fly is out of the water, then make a short roll cast towards your intended target. After the roll cast, there should be about a rod's length of leader/line outside the rod tip.
If you are retrieving the fly through the water, then point the rod tip at the fly and retrieve it (while keeping the rod tip low to the water) until there is about a rod's length of leader/line outside the rod tip. If the fly is deep in the water, raise the rod tip to bring the streamer up to within a foot of the surface of the water. Now, make a roll cast towards the next intended target.
This initial roll cast positions the streamer, leader/line, and rod tip all in the direction of the intended target. At the end of the roll cast, the rod needs to be low (almost touching) the water.
Now, you can pick the rod up and perform a standard fly cast. Keep the rod canted to the side in order to avoid colliding the streamer with the rod tip during the back and forward cast.
On the forward cast, release line from your non-rod hand so it can shoot through the guides and provide greater distance. Keeping a high rod angle will improve the trajectory which increases distance.
Often, I will also release some line during the backcast in addition to releasing line on the forward cast. Doing this squeezes out just a bit more distance. When releasing line on the backcast, it also helps to add a single haul on the forward cast to generate line speed.
This normal fly cast can also be combined with a slight oval cast as well. You can blend the two together if you want to omit the initial roll cast. By using a combination of the two, the oval cast picks the fly up and out of the water, gets the fly traveling in the right direction, and generates initial line speed for our normal cast:
Point the rod tip at the fly and retrieve it within rod's length or two of the rod tip. If the fly is deep in the water bring it up to within a foot of the surface, then lower the rod tip while stripping up any slack.
Begin making an oval cast in the direction of the next target.
As you rotate the oval cast over and the fly is casted forward, keep the fly in the air (I like to think of this as an aerial roll cast). Once the line goes tight on this 'forward' cast, immediately begin a backcast. Another tip: You can release line on this forward cast before going into the backcast as another option for adding distance.
After the backcast, make a strong forward cast and shoot the line and fly out towards the distant target. Incorporating a single haul on this forward cast, and keeping a high rod angle at the end of the forward cast, will give even more distance.
Retrieving and Jigging the Streamer
Jigging the streamer during the retrieve, or while high sticking, is one of the more effective ways to euro streamer fish while drifting. Jigging the streamer, by raising and lowering the rod tip, causes the fly to rise and fall which is a bite trigger for predatory fish. The longer, lighter euro rod gives us better control to subtly impart a jigging motion to the fly, more control than a normal 9ft fast action 6 or 7 weight streamer rod has.
When you are drifting and find a likely spot that could hold a large fish, such as a deeper bucket of water around a log jam, the ultimate goal is to get the fly into the strike zone and hold it there for a prolonged period. Keeping it in the strike zone can be mix of reaching out and high sticking while simultaneously jigging the rod tip to animate the fly.
You don't want to be disconnected from the streamer as you jig it. Keeping a little bit of tension as you raise and drop the fly is important, and a lower rod angle (45-degrees as opposed to something higher like 80-degrees) will help you to stay in contact with it. Jigging is also best done from the forearm rather than using the wrist because it, again, helps you to stay in touch with the fly.
Drifting and jigging the fly along a seam of water is another effective use of the technique. While doing this, if you notice you are missing strikes, or the fish are missing the fly when they swipe at it, slow down the jigging or add more of a pause in-between. The other key is to move the fly up/down the water column by raising the sighter up or down and then add small jigging motions. For example, to target a deeper run you can lower the sighter into the water which will get the streamer to depth. Once at depth, lightly jig the fly while also adding the occasional pause.
When the river is off-color, jigging the fly can be killer. I like to use dark and/or flashy flies that contrast with the muddy water and slowly jig the fly as we drift. The fly almost has to bump into a fish's face for them to eat during these conditions, and jigging a streamer with a euro rod achieves just that. A contrasted, flashy fly can also be easier for you to see, and when it disappears that could be an indication of a strike.
Jigging a streamer is also an easy way for someone new to euro nymphing from a boat to try it out. Just have them jig the streamer and make short pitch casts out and then jig retrieve the streamer back towards the boat.
Lastly, when you come up to a piece of structure that is fairly large, such as a pile of logs, you can make one cast and then high stick and jig the streamer along the length of the structure as you drift by:
Retrieving and Animating the Streamer with Jerk Strips and Head Flips
There are two other ways you can animate the fly while retrieving it through the water: jerk strips and head flips. Both of these can make the streamer appear like a baitfish that is struggling to right itself in the current or is wounded.
When using jerk strips, I prefer to make a distance cast and then jerk strip the fly back to the boat in order to cover water while imitating wounded prey. To preform the jerk strip, after making a cast:
Point the rod tip at the fly and keep the fly line pinched to the cork. Keep the rod tip low to the water.
Move the rod tip to the left or right, this will jerk and move the fly slightly closer to the boat. Don't get carried away with moving the rod too much, a few inches is more than enough to animate the fly (remember it's a longer fly rod).
Then, simultaneously point the rod tip back at the streamer while stripping up the slack with your non-rod hand.
With the tip of the fly rod pointing back at the streamer, repeat the process.
Head flips are a way to change which direction the head of the fly is facing. Head flips are a fantastic way to imitate baitfish trying to re-gain themselves in the current. Next time you are on the river and find baitfish in/near any current, watch as they have to turn aggressively in the current in order to maintain stability. As they turn and twitch, predators pick up on this vulnerability and pounce.
Head flips are more easily done when the streamer is no more than about two rod lengths out. To animate the fly with head flips:
Position the streamer perpendicular to the boat.
Point the rod at the fly and start with the rod tip low to the water.
Sweep the rod tip up and over the fly which will change the direction it is facing.
Strip up any slack if the fly is moved closer to the boat.
A helpful video on this is available here.
While drifting through pocket water, head flips around boulders can really get a fish's attention. Present the fly to the front side of a boulder, do a head flip, drift it down seam, then do another head flip (or multiple flips) as the fly moves along the seam created by the boulder.
Tips on Setting the Hook
Unlike traditional streamer fishing, with euro streamer fishing we are often setting the hook with both the rod and a strip set together. When high sticking, jigging, and/or dead drifting the streamer we have to set the hook with the rod because a strip set alone wouldn't be enough to bury the hook. I covered some of this in the previous article on euro nymphing from a boat, so be sure to review that.
For euro streamer fishing, I am often fishing closer to the boat and with a higher rod angle in comparison to traditional streamer fishing. So a combination of a hook and strip set is critical. However, when I make a distance cast and am jerk stripping the fly further out from the boat, then a strip set alone can be enough to drive the hook in. If I feel/think the hook didn't seat well, then I will raise the rod or drive it low to the water either to the left or right.
Conclusion
Thank you for checking out this article, it was a long one! But, there is a lot to cover with this topic and by no means is it all covered here. Euro streamer fishing is such a thrill to do while drifting down a river, and seeing just how much you can animate a fly and keep it in a strike zone is eye-opening the first time you try this out. If you have any questions feel free to leave them in the comments below or send me an email.
Lastly, if you live in or are visiting Spokane, I provide guided fly fishing trips and instructional lessons around Spokane to include float trips on the Spokane River and stillwater trips across various Eastern Washington lakes. I guide with Fly Fish Spokane, and more information/trip rates can be found at the website: FlyFishSpokane.com
